Choose the right type of sandpaper and grit

Update:05 Aug 2019
Summary:

A very important step after completing any wood work is […]

A very important step after completing any wood work is polishing. Whether you choose to use any type of electric grinder or hand sanding, you need to choose the right type of sandpaper and grit. Grinding with the wrong sandpaper can cause irreparable damage to your work, so this step is especially important.
Polishing equipment
Choose the right gravel
The sandpaper is graded based on the number of abrasive particles per square inch that make up the sandpaper. The lower the number, the thicker the gravel. Sandpaper is usually divided into coarse (40 to 60), medium (80 to 120), fine (150 to 180), very fine (220 to 240), ultrafine (280 to 320) and finer than fine Fine (360 capsules and above). Grinding with progressively finer sands removes the scratches left by the previous coarse sandpaper and ultimately leaves a smooth surface. The author said that some of the models we commonly use are 400# 600# 1000# 1200# 1500# 2000#.
You might ask, “Why can't I polish the whole process with fine sandpaper?” The author wants to say, um, there is nothing to say that you can't, but the coarse sandpaper will quickly remove excess rough material and then use finer. Sanding the sand makes the surface of the work smoother, which also makes the whole process of sanding easier and faster. And almost all experienced woodworkers will tell beginners that the work is as fast as possible.
Grading sandpaper
Two main types of sandpaper: commercial and industrial. The difference lies in its composition, namely the material used as gravel, the backing material (paper) and the glue used to hold the gravel on the paper. The industrial grade uses higher quality materials to handle all three components.
In addition, you may see sandpaper that is rated as an “open” or “closed” jacket. The difference is that closed sandpaper has more closely grouped grit particles, with open sandpaper having a larger gap between the particles. As a general rule, open sandpaper is generally more suitable for woodworking because it is not often clogged, especially when using cork containing more resin.
Abrasive type
There are five main types of sandpaper to choose from, but not all sandpaper is good for woodworking. Cellophane, also known as vermiculite, is lightweight and usually pale yellow. Cellophane is easy to break down and is rarely used in woodworking.
Garnet paper is usually brownish red and is usually used in woodworking. It won't polish the wood as quickly as other sandpaper, but it will leave a better finish. Garnet is the best choice for finishing the sand.
Alumina is another common type of sandpaper used in woodworking projects. It is the type of paper most commonly used in electric sanders. Alumina is more durable than garnet paper, but does not leave a good finish.
Silicon carbide paper is usually dark gray or even black. This type of paper is mainly used for finishing metal or for "wet grinding", using water as a lubricant. Although some advanced surface treatments use silicon carbide paper, it is usually not used for woodworking.
Finally, ceramic sandpaper is made from some of the most durable abrasives that remove large amounts of rough material in a short period of time. Ceramic paper is commonly used in belt sanding belts, but it is sometimes used for manual sanding of wood. It usually leaves a very rough surface, so be careful when using ceramic sandpaper, especially on plywood or lacquer finishes, which can quickly pass through the finish and destroy the work itself.
At this point, the introduction of sandpaper has come to an end. In most general woodworking applications, you may find that the sanding step starts with the original coarse-grained alumina paper using different sandpaper, and then uses a finer garnet paper to leave a very smooth surface, which is also your display. One aspect of carpentry skills. Once you've finished polishing, you can start dyeing or painting your carpentry. After reading so much, start creating your own woodworking work.